Auk Phansa - End of the Rainy Season Retreat

Descent of the Buddha in an 18th Century manuscript sent to Sri Lanka from Ayutthaya before it’s destruction in 1767. Bodleian Library MS. Pali a. 27 (R) Oxford

This year the full moon of the 11th lunar month (Asvina) falls on Tuesday the 7th of October. This is the standard time for the end of the rain retreat (Vassa) when monks are restricted in their travels, though of course some traditions count 4 monthes for the retreat, ending on the following full moon, that is Loy Krathong.

For this festival I would like to quote a short sermon on the importance of this date and then mention some of the many different festivals that are used to commemorate it here in Thailand.

“…in memory of the return of the Buddha from heaven during the rainy season, an event is held at the end of the rainy season. It is an act of merit called the Coming Down from Heaven. The Buddha became a celestial being in heaven in order to repay his mother by proclaiming the Abhidhamma, or the ultimate truth. His mother and countless celestial beings attained Nirvana. At the end of Buddhist Lent, the Buddha descended to the human world to the city of Saṅkassa. All the human and celestial beings, the king, and so many people of Saṅkassa came to pay respect and welcome the Buddha on the full moon day of the end of Buddhist Lent, around October.

On this special occasion, the Buddha held the Pavarana ceremony. The Buddha declared among the assembly of the monks, in regard to moral conduct, that he was still beyond reproach of his colleagues in the higher life. The Buddha laid down a code of ethics for regularly examining oneself, stating that a monk must constantly caution himself in accordance with the code of ethics of monks. Monks have many rules of conduct and must observe these rules constantly for the progress of the teachings of the Buddha.

At the end of the Buddhist Lent, householders prepare food and offerings for monks, together with flowers, candles, incense, and saffron robes. During the Buddhist Lent, monks confine themselves to the monasteries and devote more time than usually to their studies. Because of their meritorious deeds, they enjoy the benefits of good deeds, live in prosperity, and can attain Nirvana at the end of their lives.”

Luang Phor Afoh - Teaching for Temple Youth (Leut Lemeut Phlai Pea / คำสอนศิษย์วัด) C18th

Rap Bua Festival - Bang Phli, Samut Prakan

Of all the Buddhist festivals of Thailand, it is quite possibly Auk Phansa which shows the most variety in terms of merit making activities. The above picture is the local tradition in the area on the outskirts of Bangkok where I live. This tradition was supposedly started by the Mon people in the area and involves throwing lotuses on a Buddha image which is shown above and can be quite riotous.

Staying in central Thailand, there is lot’s of evidence that 100 years ago people used to celebrate Loy Krathong twice a year, once for the end of the rain retreat and a second time the following month, the time of it’s current date. This is mentioned in many sources from the time such as Wales - Siamese State Ceremonies and Rajadhon - Essays on Thai Folklore Pg 58 (speaking of the late 19th century):

“…in old days the royal Loi Krathong was on a grand scale called krathong yai or big krathong. Some of the princes and ministers of state each made a krathong. They were big ones, so big that they could accommodate in each of them a number of artists playing musical instruments or performing Comic and practical jokes. The designs of the krathong were various, giant lotus flowers, junks and what not. Each owner competed with the others… This big krathong took place in the full moon of the twelfth month (November) while Krathong on a minor scale composed of miniature royal barges took place in the eleventh month (October).”

Another tradition mostly found in the central region is Devorohana or Tak Bat Devo. This is where monks in a line descend from a high place to take alms, ritually reenacting the Buddha’s descent from the heavens when he preached the Abhidhamma to his mother during the 3 month rains retreat.

This descending monks tradition can also be found in south Thailand where there is also a tradition of having processions of Buddha images at this time of the year too.

Finally in the north eastern region, that is Isaan and neighbouring Laos this time of the year involves the floating of lanterns into the sky and the building of small bamboo frame boats covered in candles that are floated on the water and increasingly in modern times the standard central Thai krathongs are being used at this time of the year too. In addition there are many other traditions such as offering of candle wax Prasats or castles to the temples.

As you can see this festival varies widely and marks the start of perhaps the busiest time of year for festivals when the kathina robe offering ceremonies start and many temples have their stupa festivals too.

Boon Ok Phansa - Isaan and Laos